An absolutely stunning wall which can be accessed by walking along a fun ledge that begins behind and to the left of Half Moon Slabs. Alternatively, climb routes on Half Moon Slabs; or for a really big day climb The Lost Boys (5 pitches) or The Big Picture (4 pitches).
Gomers Go Round 18, 17, 17. Somewhere left of the slab, climbed to gain access for bolting. Not shown.
Gomers Go To Ground 24 ** Fine slab climbing left of the first pitch of Pulp Friction. 3 bolts to first belay of Pulp Friction. Not shown.
A Fully Wired 22, 20. Climb the first pitch of Pulp Friction or Gomers Go to Ground. Traverse 3m left from the first belay then up to bolt. Through bulge. 5 bolts to belay. Then straight up past 2 bolts to grassy cracks then move right to third belay of Pulp Friction
B Pulp Friction ** 19, 20, 19, 17, 13, 16. Straight up the centre of the slab. Amazing first pitch on perfect rock, 7 bolts. The next two pitches are almost as good, 11 bolts and 5 bolts respectively.
C Ground Hog Day 17, 19, 20. Climb the first pitch of Southerly Front, continue up to shallow pillar, belay on a flake. 7 bolts. P2 climb the pillar to a quick pull onto the upper slab and up to belay ledge, 6 bolts. P3 traverse left across the slab to the left edge and up. 7 bolts.
D Southerly Front 17, 20, 23, 23, 18, 15 ***. The first four pitches of Southerly Front took a week to put up because of the need to make fequent runs back to Mount Cook to recharge the six volt battery used to drill the ultra hard greywacke. Andy Mafarlane endured a thirteen metre whipper on the fourth crux pitch during the first ascent. Start below the large chockstone, climb the shallow pillar to a horizontal break and traverse left to the belay. Three pitches up the right hand slab to the ledge below the headwall.
E Sticky Date Pudding 24, 24. Two long pitches to the right of Southerly Front
F Rock Vandals *.Two pitches on the right of the white corner. Grades 20, 22 to the ledge, climb the upper wall on natural gear. Grade 14, 16 to bolt belays.
G The Western World* 21, 22
H Stealing a March 16, 17, 18. The climb that started modern development of the crag. "Andy Macfarlane was on the phone, excited: I’ve just seen the biggest unclimbed slab in Australasia and we’re going to put a route up the middle of it." Dave Brash, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 2001. From the valley scree climb a broken rock pillar (the right hand of the three pillars) to the base of Southerly Front slabs. The broken rib leads to a groove left of the arête, higher up traverse right around the arête to a thin crack on the upper wall.
I March Hare 17, 18, 17, ***. Three excellent pitches up the arête, grades 17, 18, 17. Great position and exposure at the grade – a must.
J Forced March * 18, 20
K Unnamed 18
L Corner Chimney 15
M Splitting Hares 16, 17